Wednesday, December 2, 2009

Black Friday Walking

Our Thanksgiving Celebration coincides this year with the Muslim celebration of Eid al-Adha, or "Festival of Sacrifice". This is celebrated to commemorate the willingness of Abraham to sacrifice his son as an act of obedience to God. During this time Muslims commemorate and remember Abraham's trials by slaughtering an animal such as a sheep, camel, goat or cow. The animal is killed on the doorstep of the home. One third of the meat is eaten by the immediate family, one third is given to friends, and the last third is distributed to the poor. It is an act to strengthen friendships and help those in need. It has nothing to do with atonement for sin. The symbolism is in the attitude of giving and being obedient.

We awoke this morning to an unusual cry in the streets. It sounded like the man was shouting, "Gazelle".  Actually, he was announcing that he was available to slaughter one's animal. Carrying a canvas bag of knives over one shoulder, he wore a long, white, blood-stained apron.  He had a helper dressed much the same way. Sam and I got out of the house shortly after that to walk about and see what we could see. We had heard that there would be much blood in the streets this day and we wondered if that would be true in our foreigner-occupied area of the city. 

We saw evidence of early-morning sacrifice in the blood stained water in the street. People were in a festive mood, greeting everyone (even us) with a smile and the equivalent of "Happy Eid".  We could hear the butchers calling out their presence as we walked. The air was crisp and clear; it felt good to be out walking.  Further down the road we saw a group of people waiting outside a gate to a villa-fresh blood ran under the gate to the street. These people were waiting for their portion of the meat.  

We walked over the Metro tracks to the "Egyptian side" of the tracks. Here we saw throngs of people, sheep and the occasional cow, tied to gates and posts. Here the streets were wet with red water. There was no odor other than the natural odor of the streets as well as that from lots of people who don't wear deodorant. We saw animals being skinned, their blood already shed. The butcher receives the skin or pelt as payment. We saw crates of lambskins being loaded onto the back of a motorcycle, with two people riding it!  Everywhere, the poor waited for their portion of the meat. It did not seem right to take photos, so I only have a few. If I had had command of the language to ask, or money to pay them, I would have done. I'll do better with photos next year. 

We walked through the streets, coming to the Nile River. We walked along the "Corniche" (riverwalk). Kids played in the grassy areas. A group of young boys took interest in us. They were probably 11-13 or so, though they professed to be 15. They spoke very good English. They traipsed after us for a long distance, taking our photos on the one cell phone the leader of the pack had. Feeling like the Pied Piper, and not really knowing their intentions, we ducked into a hotel for a cup of coffee to reflect on our morning. I called my mom and sister. It was 5:30 am their time. They were at Kohl's, doing their (our) Black Friday Shopping.  It was their third stop of the morning. It was good to hear their voices-even better that it was not 5:30am here! (It was 1:30pm)!  I missed them, missed being with them, but am very glad to have this experience!


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