Tuesday, January 25th was circled in my day planner as a day off work for Sam. It was a national holiday called “Police Day”. A recent holiday, this day is one that is set aside to honor police (who have a rather poor image here in Egypt). This years’ Police Day has been touted as “The Day of Anger”. In several places across Egypt large numbers of people met to protest the government. Thousands filled Tahrir Square in downtown Cairo and became aggressive to the point that water cannons and tear gas were employed by the police. In Suez and Alexandria similar situations took place.
In Maadi, we are insulated somewhat from the daily life of most Egyptians. Maadi is located across the Nile from much of Cairo and we really live in an “ex-pat bubble.” My first indication that Police Day was more than a celebration of a day off work was my facebook page. Friends and family, more in the know than myself, were leaving us messages like: “thinking of you.” “Praying for Egypt.” “ Are you safe?” “Are you far from the demonstrations?” Then security updates and cautions to stay out of downtown showed up in my inbox. Tuesday night at our Life Group we logged onto a website with live updates of the situation in Tahrir Square and other places. We were amazed at what we saw: Normally passive Egyptians, speaking out against the current Mubarak regime, waving homemade banners demanding he step down from the presidency and chanting anti-Mubarak slogans.
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| "Red Carpet Divas" Bunco Party |
On Wednesday, I played bunco dressed up as a Glam Rock Star in Kattameya (a beautiful area with a golf course and large villas about 20 minutes from Maadi) with 10 other women. In our discussions around rolling dice and eating ‘elegant finger foods’ we were entertained by one another’s stories. Eventually our conversations turned to the tensions of the people of Egypt and rumors of more demonstrations and perhaps even Mubarak stepping down on Friday. It seemed far fetched at the time.
Sam sent me a text after lunch on Thursday stating that an Egyptian told him to stay close to home after prayer time on Friday-that there could be problems. My inbox held several updates from Apache, one from the Country Manager writing to tell of possible internet and phone disruptions on Friday.
So, today is Friday, January 28. I like Fridays! Besides it being a day off of work, Fridays are usually quiet on the streets. Cars remain parked along roads and walkways. The people on the street are street sweepers, and dog walkers, and ex-pats heading to Lucilles or The Green Mill for breakfast. Fridays are the days that beggars head into the areas around the mosques for a handout. They shuffle down the street or they sit on the curb with their kleenex packets {which they sell for LE1 (about 20 cents]) hoping someone will have compassion on them. On Fridays, Sam usually goes in to the office for a few hours, getting home about the time I am up and around and ready for breakfast. Today I was up early having decided last night to get up and pack our “To Go” bags. I awoke to find the internet is interuppted as well as my Mobinil phone service. Instead of sitting on the sofa, watching Discovery Channel, I was packing first aid kits, a change of clothes, toiletries, water, snacks and important papers.
When Sam returned home from getting reports at the office, we started out walking to Lucilles restaurant for breakfast. A few flats down from ours, we passed a woman who had obviously been shopping for groceries. Seeing the wisdom in that, we made our way to Kimo, one of the local groceries to purchase a few items. Kimo is a very small neighborhood grocery...three aisles and a back room packed with canned goods from several countries, meats, and dairy, breads, and cleaning supplies. One has to turn sideways to pass another in the aisles; it is that small. Kimo was bustling! Lines 5 and 6 people deep formed in the already narrow aisles. It reminds me of the morning before a predicted snow storm in Oklahoma! This is definitely a departure from the usual quiet Friday morning.
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| Lucille's Restaurant on Road 9 |
Sam and I toted our groceries back to our flat, got in our car and drove to Road 9 and Lucilles. The time was eleven o’clock. We wanted to be home by noon when prayers would begin. Lucilles is an American oasis on the main shopping road in Maadi. Started some years ago by an American woman who likes country music and western decor, this is one place where we can get food that really tastes like the food at home! The onion rings and hamburgers are a culinary flash to the past. (pre-Egypt dining). Today there was not a single person waiting outside the Tiffany-lamped, 10 booth establishment! And there were open booths! The sausage, eggs and hashbrowns were yummy, as expected!
It is an unsettling feeling, knowing that all our communications are cut off. We can’t communicate across town, let alone across oceans. Before Sam came home, I was a little anxious. I was reminded that this is no surprise to God. He determines governments and authorities. Governments fall and rise under God’s watchful eye. I know he knows how many hairs there are on my head... (I wonder if that includes the sinkful I lost today!) He is a personal God and He is a Universal God. In Him I will put my trust.
Watching television and working on an applique` while Sam sits next to me reading, we are impressed with the rage and courage apparent in the demonstrators. Depsite the blackout of mobile phones and internet service, people are turning out on the streets by the thousands. They are throwing rocks, setting fires, chanting slogans of “Change The Regime” and “God is Great”, and ignoring tear gas symptoms to make their grievances known. The response of the police surges toward the protestors and retreats when they advance. Their rock throwing caused one police vehicle to turn around and flee. Images of police overwhelmed by the masses simply shows the fierceness of the people.
This is an unprecedented event in the history of the Egyptian people. Almost every newcast describes what is going on here as “ Unprecedented.” It is the buzzword of the crisis. In general, the people of Egypt are patient, longsuffering, and quiet people who are laid back and outwardly accepting of their lives. They are slow to action while quick to laugh. But today, we are seeing the underlying anger that 30 years under Mubarak has instilled in them. One interesting thing about the demonstrators is that they are from all walks of life. They are young students, adults, old people, business people, common folk, nicely dressed, shabbily dressed. The newscasters are saying that tomorrow Egypt will awaken changed because of what has taken place today. The people have spoken; they want reform!
The people are calling for Mubarak to step down. They are defying the imposed 6 pm curfew. They have set on fire the National Peoples Republic building-an iconic building of the current regime. It sits next to the National Egyptiam Museum full of antiquities, so there is concern it may be damaged. As Sam and I went to bed, people were still demonstrating in the streets of Cairo and Alexandria.
Saturday, January 29, 2011
Sometime during the night our electricity went off so all was dark and quiet when I awoke. It’s not unusual for the electricity to go off, but my first thought was, “Oh, no, the government has cut electricity now!” And then I thought, “What will I do today if there’s no electricity!” Ha. Sam was out in the living room and the lights were on. I had not bothered to flip the light switch!
Television reports today that tanks are rumbling through the downtown streets of Cairo, Alexandria, and Suez. Mubarak has refused to step down but he has ‘fired’ his cabinet and states he will appoint a new cabinet on Saturday (today).
There is some question about why the US is involved in supporting Mubarak’s regime. They are not happy that the tear gas canisters have USA writing on them. Some of the protestors are angry at the US. That will be interesting in the near future to see if that becomes a problem for us here. One of the commentators explained the US interest in Egypt as being three-fold: Egypt is important for her relations with Israel and Palestine. She is a moderate country and an important ally in the Middle East and she runs and operates the Suez Canal which is a passage way for oil ships to the West. There are probably other reasons as well.
My biggest concern is that our family is worried about us, and we can’t communicate that we are ok.
Sam has gone to the office; the rigs have cell power and can call to the land line at the office to give reports. (an hour later) Sam is home. The General security officer was a little nervous that Sam was there at the office. He talked his way in to get the reports and then left. Cellphone coverage is back up so we have been calling each other to check up.
According to the television, people were gathering again in the downtown area, but in a friendly manner-- waving at the tanks and military personnel, posing for photos with passersby and nodding when greeted.
Sam and I went around the corner to Seoudi Market, another small grocery store near our home for a couple of items for dinner. We were shocked to find 20 or more people in the street where usually there are only a few. Winding our way through the cars and people, another surprise awaited us! The steps leading down into the garage-level grocery was barricaded. Stooping low so I could see into the building, I could see the store was packed with people shopping. Food prices are rising and there is no indication that this is going to let up any time soon. Actually, except for fresh produce, we could eat for months without going hungry! We have a freezer full of frozen pork, beef, fish and chicken. We could see there was a large number of would-be shoppers waiting their turn to enter so we decided to just go back home.
Mustafa, one of the young men who delivers water and other goods for us came riding up on his bicycle, “Madam, Madam, What do you need?” he asked. I inquired about what was going on and he asked me again what I wanted. I told him, “Butter, lemons, and bread.” “No bread,” he said, ‘ I will bring you butter and lemons.” Sure enough, a short time later, he arrived with lemons and a battered looking bar of butter. It looked like someone took a bite out of it! “ Sorry, Madame” , he said, “ It is the only one left!”. I accepted it, gratefully, and gave him a good tip! Then he wrote down his phone number for me and told me to call him if I need water...that there is no more water for sale in Maadi.
After lunch today, Sam’s company sent a courier to our house with a Security Update. We read it, made sure we had everything they suggested packed and ready to go. It doesn’t seem real that we could have to leave. We enjoy our life and the people in Egypt. But when we look at the television and see the demonstrations, we know that Egypt as we know it, will be forever changed. The people have found their voice; they have left their fear behind them and they are demanding change.
Then, Avis called to fill me in on the latest news about town: Carre Four, a very large, Walmartish style store has been sacked and looted and was seen to be afire earlier this morning. Gunshots were heard on Road 9, about a km from our home. A police shelter was overturned in Maadi. A library with Susanne Mubariks name on it was burned in Maadi behind the Maadi Grand Mall...not far from our flat. She and Bud had to cancel the Gumbo Party they were having tonight because of a 4pm-8am curfew imposed by the government for today. At Avis’ suggestion, I took photos of everything in our home--in case we are required to leave it all in an evacuation.
Sam has closed all our shutters as evening is falling. No one is on the street outside our home, but on the television tens of thousands are still in Tahrir Square defying the curfew and milling around. There was an obvious absense of police on the streets today. Usually, there are many police on every street. We are on a main street, near the Cairo American College, or American School (Why they call it a college, I don’t really know). There are police on these corners and in front of the school...but not today!
We were able to get through on the Apache line to tell our parents we are ok. It was too early to call our kids so Mom will let them know. It was good to hear my mom’s voice. It was difficult to hide the anxiety I am feeling, but I hope I was convincing! It really is amazing to have a second row seat... to see the birth pangs of the new Egypt. Chanting from the people in the square is so deafening. Right now on the television people are slapping the sole of their shoe against a homemade banner. I know the sole of the foot or shoe is a huge offense, but I don’t know exactly what it means. Mubarak is in ‘crisis’ talks according to the announcer from Aljazeera. The crowd is carrying the body of a fallen protester down the street. He is draped with an Egyptian flag, on a board and carried by a dozen people. Martyrs and Heros are being made today.
Sunday, January 30
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| Tanks along the road |
The military have been called in. Tanks sit in the intersections and the squares with men dressed in combat gear. I find out that Saturday night our bowab, Abdu and Mustafa, our door man fought off intruders. One of the embassy people heard them and called the US Embassy. They sent three men, dressed like Rambos over to guard our building. They are dressed in full gear with bullet proof vests and real guns. I am so proud of Abdu and Mustafa! I am amazed at their courage. Our friend, Todd reported that he heard so much gunfire last night that he slept in the bathroom betweent the tub and the washer and dryer. At one point last night I was terrified by the gunfire that sounded like it was in our block! Laying awake, staring into the darkness, I was listening for the slightest sound that our home was being invaded. Over the course of what seemed like an hour, I heard three large explosions. Sam was sound asleep. I woke him up and told him what I had heard to which he replied, “ I don’t hear anything!” And then he rolled over. Well, not one to want to fend off intruders in my t-shirt and undies, I announced, “Well, I’m getting dressed!” I pulled on my jeans and socks and sat on the edge of the bed for a few minutes. Sam hauled himself out of bed and went to the front room and peered out into the night. “Rambo is still here. I think we are safe,” he said as he went back to bed. Soon I returned to be bed as well, but sleep did not find me.
I wondered if this is what it was like back when England was being bombed and they hid under tables and beds. I feel so vulnerable on the ground floor in spite of our burglar bars and locked doors! We have two more doors between our front room and the bedroom. We locked both of them! I was really afraid. I thought about what I had to protect myself--I wished I had bought that heavy onyx candlestick now !
There is talk of evacuation. BP is talking about leaving on Monday. The US Embassy is calling for voluntary evacuation of all non-essential personnel. I spent a good part of the day loading my photos and documents onto an external hard drive. Sam burned files in the brick chimney on our patio. The smell of burning paper brought Abdu, the bowab to our door. He indicated that he could smell something. In our sign language and broken Arabic, I explained that Mr. Sam was burning something outside. We are destroying anything with important account numbers or sensitive information on it.
A driver came to the door with more information. Now they are speaking of evacuation in the morning. I find out that we can take one medium size bag so I go through my closet and pull out clothing and shoes and some quilt fabric that will give me something to do with my hands if we do leave. I don’t want to leave. This is our home. I like it here. I am hopeful this unrest will blow over soon. I pack a few things for the grandgirls and for Mom’s friend, Bobby. She was wanting a purse from Mokkatum. I had to choose between 5 I have been buying up for Mom’s friends at the zoo.
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| Protestors take time out to pray during the demonstration. |
The television shows many more people in the squares and on the streets today. The momentum is gathering. The sounds of gunfire and artillery blasts throughout the day seem so strange. What is really strange is that I went upstairs to talk to Susie, and while we were talking about quilts and other ‘normal’ stuff, the sound of munitions firing punctuated our conversation. We commented how something two days ago was so frightening has now become the new norm.
Looking outside, people are walking, and shopping around the corner as usual. It is surreal. It must be a little bit like living in Israel/Palestine where bombs, guns, and artillery are a part of everyday life.
We are invited to go to Bud and Avis’ for Gumbo at 1 o’clock. I am glad for something to do! We enjoyed a wonderful bowl or two of gumbo, prepared by Chef Bud. Avis had a lovely appetizer plate and Marguaritas for us to enjoy! It was wonderful. Curfew today is at 4PM so we head for home and since we are not going out again, we get our PJs on, plug in a DVD and enjoy an evening on the couch!
Monday, January 31
7:30AM We are ready to go to the airport once we get the call giving us moving instructions. Neither Sam nor I slept very well last night. Sam got up to check to see if our Rambo was still outside. He was so we went back to bed and had fitful sleep.
We get the call, but we are not leaving today. Arrangements are not yet completed. I am happy to be here another day. It is a beautiful day outside. Just a little cool, but promising to warm up to somewhere in the 70s! Last night there was little gunfire and we slept pretty well. Turning on the television, I see that people are in Tahrir Square in small groups. The newscaster is saying the people of Egypt are calling for a Million Man March on the Presidential Palace tomorrow. That does not sound good. I am beginning to be a little anxious; I wonder if we are going to be allowed to leave.
8:30AM Sam gets permission to go to the office, but before he leaves we decide to take those pork ribs out of the freezer and see if someone wants to help us eat them. I have been waiting for a special occasion to bring out the ribs....looks like this is it! Why are ribs a special occasion feast? Because in Egypt, pork is not an acceptable food for Moslems. Coptic Christians used to be allowed to raise pigs, but with the Swine Flu Epidemic of 2009-2010, the government decided to destroy the swine population (under the guise of prevention--actually it was religious persecution) and the livlihood of many Egyptian Christians as well. We have a couple of places where we can buy pork under the radar in Cairo, but for the most part, expats bring thier own, frozen in coolers. 70 pounds of meat will fill our home freezer! It’s a real treat to thaw a slab of bacon or grill a pork chop! I have not been back in Egypt long enough to be dreaming of pork ribs so whenever Sam suggests eating them, I say, “ not yet, those are for a special occasion!” Today is that special occasion. I would hate for the electricity to be turned off and they go to waste!
9:30AM a driver comes by with an update. We have to sign for it to show we have recieved it. We can now take two carry on size pieces of luggage that we can carry. There will be no baggage handlers on the private charter flight. There will also be no food service so they encourage us to bring snacks, water, and food for the trip. We are set with those things! I do have to shuffle some things from my medium size suitcase to a carry on bag. My stomach knots with tension as I realize I will have to choose to leave a few things behind.
We have all played the game or had to do the essay on “ If you were stranded on a desert island and could only bring three things, what would they be?” or “ If your house were burning down and you could only save one thing, what would it be?” Well, the question before us is this, “ If you could only take two carry on bags as you flee Egypt, what would you put in them?” Choices have to be made. Normally, I would say, “my kids baby pictures” I am leaving them behind. I would say, “ Important papers.” They are in the bag. And so it goes. Some things are silly, I know. A children’s book about Cairo for my granddaughters, Emmalia and Kaira. I only bought one at the time because I know Gianna will be too young to read when she is born in May. I was planning to buy another for her later. I wish I had bought two. I am bringing a bag for my mom’s hairdresser because she wanted one and I don’t know if we are going to be able to go back or not. I am bringing three little pottery coffee cups for the grandkids that we got when we went to Taba Heights. I am bringing some clothes and electronics that have important data on them. And I am bringing some fabric that I need for the quilt block I am appliqueing.
There are a lot of things that don’t fit in. A lot of things that right now, have lost value because people and life are more important. It is a what if game that has become reality. I don’t really like this game. I’d rather play Settlers of Catan!
I call a few friends and they are coming! We will have to eat early because the curfew today is set for 3PM. We will eat about 1PM. Now, what to go with ribs? Everyone is bringing something, but I don’t have anything fresh in the house--I have cleaned out the fridge and pantry so we don’t come back to rotten food...a trip to the grocery is in order!
On my way to the grocery, I pass the neighbors bowab. He is an older man who speaks good English. I love to say hello to him because he always responds with, “Hello, Lady”
He makes me smile. Today he is sweeping the area in front of the building. We greet one another. Today he is not smiling. He looks tired. His eyes are puffy and red. His shoulders are stooped with fatigue from being up during the night and the from the resolve to continue his responsibilities during the day. I wonder when he last slept. When he was able to get something to eat. I want to do something to make him feel better.
Seoudi grocery around the corner is full of people, but it is open! There is pandemonium around the bread truck that is trying to unload bread. There has been no bread the past couple of days. People are grabbing blue plastic cartons full of bread and head down the stairs into the store to pay for it. Other people are grabbing bread out of those same containers for themselves! I see that the bread is the local Baladi Bread. I grab a couple bags of it as one of the workers strides past me. I will give this to my friendly bowab neighbor. The cucumbers and tomatoes look good and they have butter so I buy it. It will last a few weeks in the fridge...right?!
I find my friend in the driveway and hand him the bread and on second thought, reach into my bag and pull out some tomatoes and cucumbers. He smiles a weary smile, “ Thank you, Lady.” Tears fill my eyes. I want to hug him. That would not be acceptable so I smile and say, “Masalama.” “ See you later.” I can’t say good-bye, because he is not supposed to know we are leaving. Mustafa is sitting outside our door. I give him the other bread and he is thankful too.
11:45 Sam calls me to say he is trying to finish up a few things, and will be home soon. I can see I am going to have to light his grill, so I read the instructions and light the grill! The ribs are on, I have put two racks in the oven because the grill is small. I know my Mom cooks ribs in the oven, but I think she cooks them a long time. These may not be as tender as they should be. They have to cook in an hour!
1PM the Ribs are grilled and smell so good. We have enough food for twice as many people! God provides~ Everyone agrees that this was a good idea- we get out of the house, away from the news and tension, have some fellowship and good food!
The news does not look good. The Square is filling up with protestors, the government is now cordoning off some streets with the big concrete dividers you see on US highways. They have big trucks and a crane downtown setting these in place. More tanks are evident in the square.
The driver is back at our door, picking up a paper we had to fill out. All is a go for tomorrow, it seems. We are hopeful that is true.
2:30PM everyone is gone and Sam and I do the dishes. It was a good “Curfew Party” as these are now being called! Sam has a few more papers to burn. When he comes back in we are going to put on PJs and watch a couple of episodes of Monk before we go to bed ...hopefully a good night’s sleep and then we begin our own Exodus out of Egypt.
Tuesday, February 1st
Last night was absolutely quiet. Sam and I went to bed about 10:30 PM after watching a couple of episodes of MONK. I wondered if I could fall asleep, but the tension of the past few days put me under the Sandman’s spell right away. There were no mortar rounds or rifle shots to jar me awake, no rumbling of tanks down our street to vibrate our bed.
Today is Megan’s birthday. I realized last Thursday that I was running out of time to order something for her. Thursday our internet went down and has been out ever since. Happy Birthday, darling daughter! How excited we were 28 years ago when you came into the world, 8 weeks early! You have been a blessing to us.
We were up early-6 to 6:30 am to finish up last minute things before leaving as soon as curfew lifted at 8:00am. We made sure the safe was left open, in case someone breaks in to loot our apartment; they would not need to destroy the wardrobe it is affixed to . We had a light breakfast and then I walked around the house unplugging all the electrical appliances, turning off the gas to the oven. I wonder what will be left in our apartment when/ if we are able to return. I know our bowab and doorman will do their best to keep looters out, but the back of our flat is secluded from their view. Someone could come over the wall and they would not know it. I don’t want them to risk injury or harm to themselves by defending our STUFF. I keep reminding myself it is only ‘stuff’, mostly replaceable, and highly insignificant in the scope of this crisis....but we people love our ‘stuff’, don’t we?! There are things that I will be sad if they are destroyed or taken...4 boxes of photos from our kids early growing up years that I planned to scrapbook while in Cairo, some paintings Sam’s mom painted, a rug my mom hooked and some of the best amethyst glass vases I have seen! Again, Kim, it’s just stuff!
‘To Go’ bags are packed with essentials; computers are stowed away inside them. Our bag of snacks weighs a good amount as does my purse! About 7:45, Sam and I take our first load of belongings down to the underground garage and stow them in our Land Cruiser. While Sam goes back for the rest of our bags, I hear rustling and Arabic coming from the far corner of the garage. I don’t know who it is, but don’t want to be seen--we are supposed to make our way out without letting anyone know we are leaving. Pretty soon, hidden by a pillar, I see who it is--three men in combat gear, looking a little bit like Rambos with their bullet-proof vests, belts holding guns and communications devices, camo gear and high power rifles were rooting through their plastic green and white Seoudi grocery bags for something to eat. They leave the garage up the ramp with drinks and bread in hand. I hear Sam coming down the stairs, and I have something for our bowab, Abdu. I leave a plastic Seoudi bag near the bowab’s door to the room where he lives. It is full of things I think he will eat: bread, eggs, tomatoes, and cucumbers.
This all feels so surreal. We have not told anyone we are leaving. Not our maid, whose daughter called to say that if we feel unsafe in our neighborhood that we can come and stay with them in their tiny 4-room apartment, because “We have strong men who will protect you.” Not our bowab who will notice eventually that our car is gone, and has not returned by curfew. Not my neighbors nor the gal who called me this morning to say they were getting evacked to Amsterdam and she just wanted me to know where she was. She said she would pray for our safety. Not the young man, Moustafa who came by our flat yesterday to see if we needed water. There is no water left in Maadi...he was going to go somewhere outside of Maadi on his bicycle to find us some. I feel so bad, being deceptive, lying to these people who have become a part of the fabric sewn into the quilt that is our life in Egypt. Surreal. Things you know could happen...somewhere else in the world. Things we read could be a danger when we signed on for foreign assignment. Things we planned for when we bought ‘to go’ bags at the REI store while on leave last summer, and when we read the packing list for these bags in the employee manual we received when we joined the company in Egypt. Safety measures you know and never think you will have to use. Really? We are leaving and closing the door on our home, our belongings, our memories here. Maybe coming back? At least we have photos on our laptops and memories in our hearts that we can bring out with us!
We sit in our vehicle until 7:58, phone the two other families we are caravaning with and pull up into the street. No one else is out yet. We ease into the circle at the end of our street; three Land Cruisers making our way down el Lasilky road to the office. The bowabs and some building owners have been up all night protecting what is theirs---and ours. We know this because there are circles of chairs on the street corners where a small campfire has burned. There are blockades across the entrances to neighborhood streets. Blockades made of stones, sticks, stacked bricks and potted plants.
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| Zaki |
Ahead I see a Land Cruiser pulled off to the right. A man is standing outside the drivers door. It is one of the drivers, Zaki, waving at us as we pass. I return a hearty wave and what I hope is a mental message of thanks and appreciation for all he has done and meant to our family. Zaki is one of our favorite drivers when we have company in town. He is Coptic and has a love for his country and her history. He is our driver, tour guide, and friend all in one! He loves to tell the story that he has 4 wives, and twelve children. He can garggle like a camel and he loves to tell about the time he won a Pepsi contest to the African Cup as an ambassador for the soccer team, The Pharaohs. Egypt kept winning, making it to the finals. He had a costume made of a Pharoah and wore it to the games. Overnight, Zaki became a celebrity! Zaki was present with employees and guests in Sharm-el Sheik when that Red Sea resort area was bombed some years ago. Zaki was injured and had a long and difficult recovery. We love his insights into Egyptian culture and his antecdotes on Egyptian life, especially life of the Muslims through the eyes of a Coptic!
Zaki is just one of many men who have driven for us and my eyes well with tears as we pass on the street. Others are gathered at the entrance to the office streets directing traffic, shaking hands, wishing us well. Amir makes his way through the gathering crowd of employees to shake hands and say his “goodbyes”. I don’t see Mohammed. I would like to tell him good-bye too.
We check in at building one and board a bus for the airport. The streets have a few cars on them now. We are to keep our curtains on the bus pulled at all times, but one friend several rows up has hers open and is taking picktures. The streets are a littered mess...no street cleaners have been out working since last Thursday. The effective homemade barricades are starting to be removed to allow for some traffic into the streets. Tanks sit every so often along our route. Manned by men in black uniforms with red on their sleeves and on their hats, they look friendly enough. Who knows what will happen this day. God knows.
This day, protestors have called for a million man march on the Presidential Palace. Already, crowds are in 100,000 in Alexandria and Tahrir Square. What will one million people look like? I wonder.
Traffic slows as we near a military check point not far from the airport. Then we are through and pulling up in front of the charter jet terminal. We had to wait outside for a long time before we were allowed inside the building. Once inside, we put our bags through the scanner and found a place to sit. It’s now about 11 am. We are scheduled to leave at 2pm. My friend Susie called me last night at 10:30 PM to say she was just getting on the plane they were supposed to leave on at 1pm. She had been 13 hours in the terminal! I hope it is not the same for us. It is a nice terminal with clean bathrooms and a snack area. The only shop is a Duty Free. Unfortunately, many people are over there buying bottles of liquor for ‘high tea’. I have seen some of these people inebriated. They can be loud and obnoxious. I hope they don’t plan on drinking on the plane. We were informed that it will not be a catered flight so we needed to bring food and drinks for the trip. I can see they are catering to these needs themselves!
2PM came and went. Apparently, there were mechanical problems on one plane so they are bringing another. Every so often we get an update and each time the departure time is moved back. The plane hasn’t arrived. 4PM The plane is here, but being serviced. 5PM We are waiting on a pilot. (How did the plane get here?) 6:00, The pilot is here but we are waiting to be invited onto the plane. 6:30 PM We have missed our time slot to leave because the plane was not loaded to go ????!!!!!???? 10 PM we are boarding the plane. Hope is growing , kids are getting their second winds, parents are tired, people are fidgety...I will be relieved when we are in the air. I think God has parted the waters of the Sea of Red Tape and we are a go!
We have heard the Embassy has called for mandatory evacuations of its employees and is telling other Americans to leave. We are concerned for our friends who four hours ago, said they were leaving tomorrow. Now we hear reports that the airports may close and there may not be anymore getting out. We also hear that Mubarak will make a statement and that following Mubarak’s speech, the US White House is making a statement. Some are speculating what will be said, and that perhaps the US is going to say something that will increase anti-American sentiment.
Our security person is working diligently to get us out. I can see the strain on his face though he has a calm outward demeanor. I am wondering if we will get out before the airport closes. Then what?
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| We get our departure stamps in our passports |
Finally! Hoorah! We get the okay to board the plane!! Sam and I are among the last to board. It is a smaller plane than we were told (via the not-so-acurate grapevine) we were going to have. Sam and I are boarding the plane with overstuffed back packs and hand bags. The plane looks full and the first two rows are not available though no one is sitting in them? I go to the back; Sam takes the first available (aisle) seat, next to Bud and Avis. If you fly much, you know how those seated feel and act when someone is looking for a seat: eyes downcast, looking out the window, or closed in a pretend sleep--they act like they are helping you out when they say, there are more seats at the back, while protecting the seat next to them with a firmly planted briefcase....and silently they are hoping you will just pass by, and then there is the look of lost hope when you chose to sit next to them or in the middle seat! I was getting those looks and body language when I was told by the flight attendant to take a seat in the second row!!! :) I am thankful to have a seat!
10:30 PM we are on board the plane and it is a tight fit on an airlines called Memphis Air. The plane is worn, the seats close together and crowded bins make it necessary for me to store my bag under the seat in front of me. The problem was not that I had to stow it, but that it did not fit under the small seat in front of me. I had to put my feet on my bag. My knees were biting into the seat in front of me so that my legs went numb from the knee down to my toes! We got an unexpected snack-- a bun with a slice of cheese and a box of juice. The bread was a welcome treat but I could not enjoy the cheese because I am lactose intolerant. Boo. The crew was tired. I had a couple of fleeting thoughts about the worthiness of the plane. There was little sleep by anyone but children on this leg of the trip!
Wednesday, February 2
2:30AM Eventually we arrive in Rome! The plane is safe, and we made it out of Egypt! We get a luke warm welcome, and a little bit of a frustration. We have to go through immigrations and security again! But, the good thing is we can now check a bag through. That will be a huge relief because if the rest of the planes are as tight as this first one, it will be a very, very long trip. We hung out for a couple of hours on the floor. Kids played quietly in groups, or dozed on their parents laps.
Some people followed their noses to the one open eatery which was selling pizzas and sandwiches--real pork pepperoni and sausage, and salami! It’s funny, what I feel about being in Rome. Not excited like I was in 2001! This has a totally different feel about it. There are some other travelers that look like they have been stranded or have a very long layover. They are sleeping on benches, on the floor, on the wide sills of the plate glass windows; some sitting in chairs with their heads resting on their bags, sound asleep! Some have sleeping bags, bedrolls, or jackets covering them. It is an interesting group--the lingering aroma of burned incense makes me wonder who they are.
The little I understand of the Italian language, I can make out that there was a turn out of 2 Million people in Tahrir Square on Tuesday! I see images of them hanging Mubarak in effigy. I am excited for the people of Egypt. Followed by a constriction in my throat and unshed tears filling my eyes. I hope we get to return. I hope my maid and her family are safe. I hope that she can make it over to my flat to pick up her pay. I hope....
A couple of kids are sick with exhaustion. I think I am close to exhaustion myself. Looking at the faces of friends and co-workers, I see that I am not alone.
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| Our group waiting for time to check our bags in Rome |
5AM we are in line to check in and check our bags. The line is going very slowly! They are putting some information in by hand. It looks like they don’t have passport readers here. The person at the desk lets everyone know how difficult her job is. She is checking us in at a snail’s pace. Kids are getting sick, adults are on edge--even my hard to rattle/irritate husband is getting testy. He gets that way when there are no ailse seats.
6AM we are through the check-in, and now we head to security. One more pass through-oops. Have to throw out that water. I drink a half a bottle because I know I am getting dehydrated. I feel woosey. My head hurts. My spirits are lifted for a moment because Sam was able to get an aisle seat, and he is feeling more positive. I take an Alieve and we get to board!
7:30ish, We are boarded, there are plenty of seats- some open seats as well. This is a nice plane! Clean, comfy leather seats! Almost as soon as my seat hit the cowhide, I was fast asleep. I awoke two and a half hours later to the sunrise in England! Pink clouds and orange sunlight streamed a path over the winding Thames River. Roads and fields and homes made a patchwork on the ground. I feel so much better and refreshed to have slept the entire way! Unfortunately, Sam did not sleep at all. He is still smiling. I love this man!
More unfortunate news. We have to claim our bags at the luggage claim, go through immigrations, and recheck our bags. We are getting a lot of practice at queing up!. We are being given a warm welcome by all- luggage handlers, ticketing and immigrations. They are aware of and sympathetic to our plight. This airport in Stanton, England is very nice! There are shops, duty free and other, lots of food places and A Krispy Kreme. After a time in line to do those things I mentioned above, we had a Krispy Kreme donut and a Costa Coffee. We bought newspapers! It sounds like Mubarak is starting to bend under the pressure. He states he will stay in power until September when an election can be held. The people won’t accept this, I don’t think. I hope they continue to be successful and can oust him from power. Reports say that Mubarak has BILLIONS of dollars hidden away. Billions! That makes me angry. What that country would be with 40 Billion dollars invested in her! What that country could DO with that money! How people’s lives would be bettered! Imagine! For a country whose mindset is honour/shame ....Shame on you, Mubarak!
It is necessary to board a tram to our terminal. This time though the seating is open, children and families get to board first. The plane is a wide body, with plenty of room and many open seats. The staff is gracious and anxious to serve us, to make our trip pleasant. Things are looking up and improving by the moment. This Apache ‘family’ is showing its strength thorough the integrity of its people. At the moment, people are sleeping, watching videos, walking the aisles, and visiting. Abby came to report where she is sitting.
11:00AM (1600 ET) Life is good, and looking better all the time. God is good. All the time. Amen!
This is a really nice airplane. It is a wide body and larger than before so we all have some extra room around us. The crew could not be nicer or more helpful. The mood has taken on a party atmosphere. Groups of people are forward or in the rear of the cabin near the flight attendant’s kitchens. They are visiting, every now and then breaking out in a roar of laughter. Kids are playing games in their seats or talking in groups. A couple of young boys, about 7 years old are bored. Their mom and I come up with a scavenger hunt for them. They have to search the plane for people with a silver watch or a blue shirt, etc. and have them sign by the item they are looking for. Pretty soon, big sister is wanting her own list with more difficult items to find. It keeps them happy and busy for awhile. Some of us are walking the aisles, and others are taking advantage of the extra room and are stretched out across several seats hoping to sleep awhile. I braid a young girl’s hair into a couple of french braids and wonder when Kaira’s (my granddaughter) hair will be long enough for me to do that for her.
Some companies send their employees on weekend retreats or day outings for team building exercises and bonding experiences. A lot of team building and community is taking place on this airplane, as a result of this crisis. We have been together for over 35 hours now. We have seen the worst and the best in each other and for the most part, we still like each other! God has been amazing in answering our prayers. The children have been exemplary throughout the entire time!
Apache employees are required to take an R&R twice a year. R&R has taken on a new meaning in sight of the revolution. In the future, R&R will be known as Revolution and Removal! Several had great ideas to turn this into a T-Shirt! Great Idea!
We were served a great breakfast shortly after getting airborne. We had tater tots, scrambled eggs, sausage, and pork and beans. A very English breakfast! I think it is the best meal I have had in awhile! A couple of hours before landing, almost everyone was awake, up and about or talking across the aisles. The flight attendants came around with juice and water several times during the flight. We could go to the kitchen for snacks whenever we wanted. Now they announce they are going to serve us a meal and to please take our seats. From here on out, the plane got quiet. We had another delicious meal of chicken and veggies and potatoes, and a brownie! With full tummies, many tried to snooze before we landed.
I began watching the flight map that shows where the plane is and how fast it is going and how long it takes to get to the destination. Now we are over St. Louis. I can see snow and the outline of the Mississippi River. I don’t find the arch though. My sister lives in St. Louis and I am looking forward to visiting with her soon.
3:10 PM the wheels of our plane touch down and the din from our clapping filled the plane. The pilot welcomed us home to US soil and wished us well. This almost 11 hour flight was cut down to about 10~ The pilot got us here as quickly as he could!
Our HR man from Cairo was on the ground at the aircraft to meet us! I don’t know quite how he pulled that off! He was home in the US to see a new grandbaby. It was a wonderful thing to see him! Shortly down the hallway we see the CEO of Apache shaking hands and welcoming everyone home. We have to go through immigrations and get our bags and go through customs. Again, somehow that was expedited for us and we were out of the airport and into the waiting buses in no time! On each seat in the bus was a fleece blanket. It is unusually cold in Houston--this is a thoughtful gesture. Upon arrival we are given a packet with our room keys, we are already checked in! In our room is a welcome too- a duffle bag full of snacks, toiletries, and a book about Houston, along with a phone, and information about picking up our keys for a rental car. Dinner is ready and waiting for us whenever we are ready for it . Apache has a room full of clothing, warm outer wear, fruits, more toiletries, office supplies and games for the kids --available for the taking for those who need them. The company has put a lot of thought into our arrival and we feel welcomed and cared for. Overwhelmed, really.
Our showers never felt this good before! As soon as we cleaned up, we began calling the kids and our parents. I got choked up just hearing thier voices. We had a wonderful buffet diner, got some instructions for the morning and headed for bed. I turned on the TV and we watched a little bit if CNN. It was showing the pro-Mubarak protestors on horseback and camel back attacking the anti-Mubarak protestors. They are saying it is a lynching. Now I am nauseated, realizing the concrete barriers they were installing two days ago are actually preventing many from getting away from the violence and may add to the wounded and dead because they are trapped. I turn off the TV. I just can’t watch this. My heart goes out to those we have left behind, and I cry for Egypt and her people. We are weary. It’s time for bed and a good night’s sleep!
Thursday, February 3
Sam is an early riser, while I am usually asleep until 7:30 or so. Today I joined him at 5AM, rested and ready for whatever today holds. We enjoyed our first cup of coffee in the room and a little later, when the breakfast was available, we went downstairs for our second and subsequent brews. Breakfast was a culinary delight with chicken-apple sausages, bacon, eggs and much more.
A meeting followed about 10 AM to hand out car keys, and to sign up for basketball tickets and other specific details about work schedules and the current plan of action. Cairo expats will be working in offices in Houston for the time being, living in the hotel, and spouses/families will be assisted to get flights to be with family elsewhere, if they choose to do that. In two weeks the situation in Cairo will be reassessed and the plan adjusted accordingly. They are offering counseling--a listening ear to those who need to voice what they have just been through, and help for those who are struggling. Apache has people in place to assist with health issues, childcare/school concerns, activites and cultural events in the area, and others. I just can’t say enough how well planned and thought out this rescue has been!
Several of us headed out to shop shortly after lunch. Sam got a haircut. We both felt refreshed getting out in the cold air! It is so cold here which is unusual for Houston. The weather forecasters are predicting snow today or tonight so the streets and parking lots have really cleared out considerably.
Now it is night again. Today has been emotionally difficult for me. I am on the verge of tears, perhaps because I am tired. Perhaps because I held ‘it’ together for many days and am just now allowing myself to relax. It’s interesting because I did not feel very stressed except when I heard gunfire or explosions. It’s difficult to read the e-mails welcoming me home without thinking about our friends who are workers, those who are teachers, those who are there without a company to rescue them. I know their families are as worried as ours are relieved. The messages from friends and family fill my heart with joy. I hope I can thank each one individually. Friends and family are such a blessed gift!
I have been reading passages of scripture about Egypt lately. This is one that I pray for them: Lord, hear the voices of Egypt as they struggle through this revolution. They desire to be out from under the oppressive regime of Mubarak. As they cry out, soften their hearts toward Jesus, my Savior and Defender. Rescue them, please. Make yourself known to them, cause them to acknowldege you, oh Lord. Amen.
Isaiah 19:19&20 In that day there will be an altar to the LORD in the heart of Egypt, and a monument to the LORD at its border. 20 It will be a sign and witness to the LORD Almighty in the land of Egypt. When they cry out to the LORD because of their oppressors, he will send them a savior and defender, and he will rescue them. 21 So the LORD will make himself known to the Egyptians, and in that day they will acknowledge the LORD.
We have passed through the water, and now, we are much like the Israelites were when they passed through the Red Sea. They did not know their future and they had to trustingly follow the Pillar of God through the wilderness. {Houston is sort of like a wilderness! :)} We don’t know our future plans, and we are trusting God to lead us.
